How To: Chisel & Hammer Usage Guide

WHICH TOOLS ARE RIGHT FOR YOU?

The following explanations are not meant to be all inclusive. They are an aid for the beginning stoneworker or those more experienced who are unfamiliar with a particular chisel or tool design.

CARBIDE TIPS

Carbide tips are tougher and more effective for use with harder stone, such as granite or the harder marbles. Carbide should outlast steel by at least 30 times, and will require much less maintenance over the life of the tool. When comparing price vs. performance, carbide is by far the better value.

CHISELS

The following chisels come with a 1/2" round shank and are intended for use with a pneumatic tool (or other tools using standard 1/2" round shanks). They can be adapted for hand use with a detachable striking cap (see below). 5/8" round shanks are also available.

Machine Chisel with Finishing Blade:
Used for general carving, sculpting and lettering.

Machine Chisel with Roughing Blade:
Used where heavy removal and rough usage is required.

Cleaning Up Chisel:
A finishing tool used as a scraper to close the grain.

Carvers Drill:
Rotate gently between your fingers while your pneumatic tool provides the impact to drill holes in your material. Smaller sizes are used for detail carving where a rounded blade (small rondel) is required.

Marble Tooth Chisel:
For aggressive stock removal and roughing out marble and softer stone.

Marble Cutting Chisel:
Used after the tooth chisel to close the grain, or when slower, more controlled stone removal is desired.

Machine Point:
For use with pneumatic tool to rough out stone and knock off high points.

4-Point Tooth Chisel:
For aggressive stock removal when roughing out. Let it "dance," for fast, controlled roughing out.

9-Point Tooth Chisel:
Follows the 4-point, leaving a more uniform surface.

Cup Chisel:
A bushing tool that will follow the stone and close the surface without digging in. Leaves a unique texture. Most effective when it bounces freely (or "dances") along the surface.

Double Blade Chisel:
Can be used after the 4-point or 9-point to take off high spots and quickly smooth surfaces.

Bush Chisel:
A finishing tool to close the grain. Blades may be added or removed as needed - the more blades, the smoother the finish.

Three-Blade Bushing Chisel:
Smoother than a double blade, leaving an axed or brushed finish.

Criss-Cross Chisel:
Cuts quickly, leaving a unique cross-hatched finish. A nice tool to follow the 9-point or three-blade.

Splitter or Cape Chisel:
Used for crisping lines, joining corners, detailing, or splitting. Cuts are narrower and deeper. Also used by masons for removing old mortar in preparation for repointing.

Ripper:
For faster stone removal on hard surfaces in hard-to-reach places. Also used by masons for joint preparation.

Detachable Striking Cap:
This cap converts 1/2" machine tool shanks into hand tools, providing a larger hardened steel striking surface so the tool can be struck with a hammer without damaging the shank. For light duty use only. Not intended for use with carving chisels

HAND TOOLS

Our hand tool striking heads are tempered to provide both good wear and impact resistance. They will "swell" with repeated use and should be ground frequently to maintain their correct, "as-new" shape and ensure their safe performance. Always wear hand, eye and ear protection when using any of our tools.

Hand Point:
For roughing out and knocking off high spots.

Hand Chisel:
For general carving and roughing out.

Hand Set:
For trimming stone to size when the surface is relatively flat.

Hand Tracer:
For pitching and tracing lines to split stone.

Mason's Chipper:
For light trimming or squaring edges.

Offset Hand Set:
Used when chipper style is desired, but more strength is needed.

Hand Plug Drill:
For putting holes in stone by hand. Simply rotate between strikes.

Things to remember when grinding carbide tools:

  • Avoid overheating or localized heating when grinding, and don't quench tool in water. Sudden changes of temperature cause cracking and eventual chipping of the tip.
  • Do not grind cutting edge too sharp or pointed.
  • Do not leave corners too sharp. All corners should have a slight flat or bevel to help prevent carbide breakage.
  • Do not allow tool to wobble or chatter when grinding. Hold firmly against wheel on firm, steady rest.
  • Use only grinding wheels recommended for carbide. Keep wheel true and in balance. Use a good ball bearing grinder, one that is in good repair and has a true running arbor.